Lene’s Summit Ambition
The ClimbThis flow follows Lene Gammelgaard’s determination to climb Everest without oxygen, her negotiation with the guides, and her survival in the storm.
increasing
Bearing strength in each event
decreasing
Leaving Climbing Behind

Leaving Climbing Behind
A New Priority
Lene Gammelgaard decides she wants a family and intends to leave serious mountaineering behind.
The Invitation
When Scott Fischer asks her to join his Everest expedition, her long-held dream overcomes her resolution almost immediately.
A Personal Everest Goal

A Personal Everest Goal
Fundraising
Lene Gammelgaard works long hours to raise money and build the public profile needed to join the expedition.
Independence
She wants to be recognized as a climber in her own right, not merely as a client carried by a guide.
The Oxygen Dispute

The Oxygen Dispute
Clashing Plans
Lene Gammelgaard insists she hoped to climb without oxygen, while Scott Fischer says her acclimatization makes that unsafe.
Persuasion
Anatoli Boukreev explains the risks and offers to help her try another time. She accepts oxygen for the summit attempt.
Summit and Warning Signs

Summit and Warning Signs
Achievement
Lene Gammelgaard reaches the summit with the later group, having endured a long ascent and an increasingly late hour.
Storm Awareness
She notices whiteout conditions developing and understands that the descent is becoming more dangerous than the summit celebration suggests.
Finding Camp

Finding Camp
Shared Navigation
Separated from some teammates, Lene Gammelgaard joins Klev Schoening and helps orient the group during brief breaks in the storm.
Survival and Witness
She reaches camp alive, but the ordeal leaves her with a lasting account of how cooperation and sound judgment can persist amid hypoxia.
1995 during the Broad Peak expedition
late 1995 to March 1996
May 1–4, 1996
May 10, 1996, afternoon
night of May 10–11, 1996